If you have a dog, cat or other furry friend in the family,
figuring out what to do with them when you deploy or move can be time consuming
and complicated. Whether you’re taking them with you or leaving them behind,
you need to start planning early.
Here are some tips for what you can do when stuck in three
difficult situations.
If you’re deploying, training or can’t take care of your pet
in the short term:
Family and friends will sometimes take care of your animals,
but they can’t always, or they might not be the right fit.
Many organizations provide support through volunteer
services to board military pets in foster homes.
Here are a few organizations that do that: Pets For Patriots
(http://petsforpatriots.org/), Guardian Angels for Solider’s Pet
(http://guardianangelsforsoldierspet.org/), Pact For Animals
(https://pactforanimals.org/pacts-work/military-foster-program/) and Loving
Paws Inc. (http://www.lovingpawsinc.org/military/).
If you get PCS orders and can bring your pet:
Permanent change of station orders can be issued abruptly.
Regardless of where you’re going, be sure to microchip, photograph and get an
ID tag for your pet before you go.
If you’re moving in the U.S., contact the state you’re moving
to at https://www.aphis.usda.gov under “State Regulations for Importing
Animals,” so you can learn their pet importation rules. Make sure to have
up-to-date vaccination and health papers.
If you’re moving to Hawaii, contact the Animal Quarantine
Station (http://hdoa.hawaii.gov/ai/aqs/animal-quarantine-information-page/) for
an information packet about their strict quarantine laws.
If you have to ship your pet, know the regulations
(http://www.state.gov/m/fsi/tc/34594.htm).
Most pets will need:
• An International Standards
Organization-compatible microchip (this can be read by most scanners).
• Proof of rabies vaccination with the microchip’s number on
it.
• A health certificate that’s endorsed by your state’s
Department of Agriculture Animal and Plant Health and Inspection Service
office. If you can’t physically get to the office, your veterinarian may have
to send for the endorsement.
Some pets will need:
• A Fluorescent Antibody Virus Neutralization (FAVN) blood
test
• An import form
• Flea and tick preventative
• Dewormer
These things are time-consuming, and your pet might be in
quarantine for a while. It also might be costly, but there are opportunities
for pet relocation financial assistance
(http://spcai.org/get-involved/military-support/operation-military-pets/operation-military-pets-assistance-application1/).
If you’re flying:
• Research airline instructions, prices and procedures for
pets before you settle on one.
• Before you book, check to see if veterinary airline
employees work weekends. If they don’t, book a weekday flight.
• Pick a flight that’s nonstop or only has one layover. Try
to keep the entire trip to less than 12 hours.
• Many pets have to ride in cargo holds that aren’t
temperature regulated. Your pet will need an acclimation letter that specifies
the temperatures that are safe for them.
• Buy a crate that meets your airline’s specifications, and
give your pet time to get used to it. Have your name, your pet’s name and your
new address clearly marked on the crate, and have water bowls and food attached
and accessible.
• Verify your pet is listed for the flight at the airport,
and be sure to mention it to a crew member once you’re on board, even though
they’re probably aware.
Get more travel tips at Military One Source at http://www.militaryonesource.mil/moving?content_id=270449.
If you have to relinquish your pet for good:
If you just can’t keep your pet and have to give them up,
know it takes time to find a new home that’s right for them. To prepare, take
them on one last veterinary trip for a check-up, vaccinations and to make sure
they’re spayed/neutered.
First, try to find friends, family or co-workers to take
care of your pet. Ask them to ask around, too, so you know your pet will go to
someone trustworthy. Dog trainers and walkers might know of good homes, too.
If you can’t find anyone you know personally, advertise
around your neighborhood or through a reputable online website like Petfinder.
• Be sure to screen candidates carefully to make sure
they’re a good fit and don’t have malicious intent. Don’t advertise that your
animal is free – that’s just asking for trouble.
• Come up with important questions to ask potential
adopters. Some good examples can be found at
https://www.petfinder.com/pet-care/giving-up-your-pet/tips-finding-home-pet/.
• Be sure to share all of your pet’s behaviors, good or bad,
including what they have problems with, whether they work well with kids and
other pets, what their endearing qualities are, etc.
Contact rescue groups who can find a foster parent to take
your pet. This way, you know your pet is going to be in good hands. If you have
a purebred pet, or close to it, contact a breed rescue organization
(http://www.akc.org/dog-breeds/rescue-network/) to see if they’ll foster it or
let you post its adoption information on their website.
If those options don’t work, research animal shelters
thoroughly. Visit the kennels, meet the staff and familiarize yourself with
their policies. Do they have a big play area for dogs to run? How often do pets
get one-on-one time with people?
While no-kill shelters might sound like the best bet,
consider whether your pet will be able to deal with the possibility of living
their life in a cramped kennel.
If you feel uneasy about an adoption applicant or a shelter,
go with your gut and make a different decision.
If your animal has ever been aggressive:
If your pet has bitten or nipped at someone, get a
professional behavioral evaluation before giving them away. Also, check state
and local laws about the liability that comes with giving a pet away that has a
history of aggression.
Lastly, never let your pet into the wild. The chances of
their survival are slim and if they’re not spayed/neutered, it will likely just
lead to more unwanted animals being born.